Travelers in search of natural
beauty should not go to Dubai. The city is an oasis in the Arabian desert, but
much of its splendor is a man-made mirage. Even its outlying islands are
artificial, and throughout the city, palm trees have been planted to create the
illusion of a tropical paradise. And while all of Dubai’s hotels boast of having
something that is the biggest, the best, or the newest, few succeed in providing
a true sense of place. Old Arabia, however, is alive and well at the Al Qasr
hotel.
 Al Qasr is one of three hotels in the Madinat Jumeirah
compound, a sprawling megaresort next door to Burj Al Arab (a soaring,
sail-shaped tower that was billed as the world’s first seven-star hotel). Built
to resemble a sheikh’s royal summer retreat, Al Qasr features intricate mosaics,
panels, and Arabian antique furnishings in its palatial public spaces and guest
rooms. Each of the rooms has a private terrace—several of which overlook the
Arabian Gulf—and the Royal Suite includes three bedrooms, a dining area, and a
majlis, a traditional room used for entertaining in Arabic homes.
If Al Qasr were in Las Vegas, the hotel’s old-Arabia theme
might seem contrived, if not downright tacky. But in Dubai, which was part of
old Arabia, the flying-carpet-fantasy atmosphere rings authentic. Of course, as
an invention of modern Dubai, this magic palace is by no means restrained:
Guests drive past a sculpted team of Arabian horses on the hotel’s ceremonial
causeway entrance; stand under a 14.7-by-16.4-foot crystal chandelier in the
lobby; stroll on an ornate bridge in the water garden; and ride in
abras, or traditional water taxis, along the 2.5 miles of man-made canals that
link Al Qasr to the beach, restaurants, and 75-store souk at Madinat Jumeirah.
LOCATION Next to Burj Al Arab, on the
Arabian Gulf in the United Arab Emirate of Dubai. ACCOMMODATIONS The
292 Arabian-style guest rooms and suites are outfitted with mosaics, marble
baths, and balconies. FACILITIES Guests
have access to the greater resort’s facilities, which include a private beach, a
health club with three swimming pools, a new spa with 26 treatment rooms, a
shopping souk with 75 boutiques, a 1,000-seat outdoor amphitheater, a 432-seat
indoor theater, and a 38,750-square-foot conference hall. DINING Spanish/Moorish food at Al Hambra, California cuisine at Napa, Mediterranean
fare and seafood at Pierchic, a multicultural buffet at Arboretum, and beachside
and poolside dining at Khaymat Al Bahar. The Madinat Jumeirah complex altogether
contains 45 restaurants, cafés, and bars. CONCIERGE RECOMMENDS Walk the narrow
lanes of Dubai’s Bastakiya district, where historic buildings, courtyard homes,
museums, and galleries offer a taste of old Arabia. RATES Deluxe rooms from $780, executive
rooms from $940, and junior suites from $1,080. The Royal Suite is
$6,950.
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